Manufacture of shoes



H. WQSTEDLER.

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES.-

APPLICATION man JULY a. 1916.

Patented Nov. 23, 1920.

3 SHEETS-SHEET I.

, ATTORNB S H. W. STEDLER.

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED JULY a. 1.916.

1,359,847. I Patented Nov. 23-, 1920;

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2- A TTOR/VEVS MW V I w H. W. STEDLER' MANUFACTURE OFSHOES.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 8.1916.

Patented Nov. 23, 1920.

a SHEER-SHEETS.

B Y I HEINRICH WILHELM S'IEDLER, or Loss mrz, ERZGEBIRGE, eERMAnY. V

MA UFACTURE or SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed July a, 1916. Serial moi-108,202.

invention, reference being bad to the accompanying drawings, in which 7Figure 1 is a side view of a" portion of a shoe as being made accordingto my invention, I

Fig. 2 is a bottom plan of a shoe in course of manufacture according toone form of my invention,

Fig. 3 is a plan view of shoe in course of manufacture similar to thatused in Fig. 1,

Figs. 3 and 3 are sectional views showing modifications of abutmentsused,

Figs. 4 and 5 are sectional elevations showing manner of sewing parts ofthe shoe together and the machinery-used therefor.

Fig.6 is a perspective view of a finished front tip, a

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of a finished upper without the tip,

Fig.8 is a view showing an inner sole with a steel plate for use inpointed'shoes, or for shoes with a high spring or a high heel,

Fig. 9 Fig. 8, t

Fig. 10 is a vertical section of-a shoe upper showing the inner sole ofFig. 8 introduced into the upper. I

In the methods-used hitherto for manufacturing shoesit was customary toform an upper of a shoe from flat parts of soft leather and to pinch orlast it over alast whereby the upper of the shoe was brought to a shapesimilar to that of the last. This practice has of late met withconsiderable difliculties owing to the modern requirements as to theexterior appearance of the is a longitudinal vertical section of shoesand because stiffening linings became necessary or were used formaintainingthe shape of the shoes, particularly at the tip.

Hitherto a junction with the inner sole was notpossible without thedifficult pinching or lasting work and even then it could Price.)- a

Y Patented Nov. as, 1920.

only be effected after the shoe had again dried .after the moisteningrequired for the pinchlng work.

The uniformity of the shoes was de-' pendent on the tensibility of theleather. If f the leather had an unequal tensibility and no damage wasto occur to the appearance of the shoes, this caused a too. tighter tooloose'pulling over, 2'. e. a too tight stretching of'the upper inlongitudinal direction and resultedin the first case in torn or crackedtips and in the latter case in folds, or wrinkles at the'front tip, theelimination of which was in both cases a great drawback in'themanufacture;

According to my invention I first mold the front tip over the stiffeninglining n and fasten it by glue.- Hereby the tipi obtains the shape orfashion of the last ex actly. The inwardly turned flange 70 forms a flatseaming-lap for the connection to the innersole.

The .finished' front tip 71 is then united with the upper aa accordingtoithe dotted line 8 in Fig. 7 or'it is stitched in the same way to thevamp a before connection ofsame to the upper. Whether the shoes areto'be with or without a tip i it is essential to fix the front part ofthe vamp so that it will effect the upper aa as shown in Fig. 1, substantially as described. Along the seaming lap k of the upper a shoulderb is'provided consisting of a cord or any other suitable means. Afterthis preparation the upper is fastened to the innersole by stitches orany other suitable fastening means. This process is done without the useof any last exclusively by guides.- In this fastening or stitchingoperation the innersole is guided by an edge guide f Fig. 4 provided onthe machine. and a process similar to the pinching or lasting is causednow by the action 'of the presserfoot against the shoulder I) providedon the upper. When sewing and thus press ingor pulling down the upperleather by the presser foot of the machine the shoulder 6 draws theupper leather in the arrow direction as shown in Fig. 2 inwardly, thewelting'd being fastened by the same stitches by means of aguide in thepresserfoot which feeds the welt in a flat and natural way so that anycompression or expansion of said welt is excluded.

In very pointed or ladies shoes the shoulder t Figs. 8 and 9 of thesteelplate, temporarily attached to the inncrsole,. can be used as aguide in the fastening or stitching operation instead of the guide fFig. lprovided on the machine. For this purpose and for the purpose ofgiving the innersole the wanted spring for a low or high heel a sinuouscurved steel plate of smaller size than the innersole is used (Figs. 9and 10). In using the edge t of the stcelplate as a guide theseaming-lap 7c of the upper has to cover the edge part of the innersolenot covered by the steelplate, whereby the action of the fasteningmachine remains as described. v

By employing the shoulder L" of the steelplate exclusively as a guide inthe fastening operation the shoulder 6 attached to the upper may beavoided and the feeding or inward drawing of the upper-leather to the ede guide t be done manually.

l he pulling over or tight stretching of the upper in the longitudinaldirection is usually eflected by the introduction of the last into theso formed shoe-casing before fastening the heel part and thus stretchingthe upper longitudinally before the heelpart is united with theinnersole. But on the other hand the heelpart can also be treated likethe front part of the shoe and thus the shoe can be sewn all around inposition.

If desired this method may also be employed without the frame accordingto which final method either welt or McKay the shoes are now to befinished.

The manufacture of shoes according to my invention presents greatpractical and economical advantages. The time required for manufacturingthe shoes is considerably shortened as the lasting or pinching processand the wet treament combined therewith are omitted. The expensivelasting, pullingover and welting machines are unnecessary; and aconsiderable saving of work, workmen and material is obtained and greatwaste is avoided.

On the vamp a of the upper aa of'the shoe is fixed by means of a seam 0a shaped or molded front tip 2', as shown in Fig. 1. Sn the front tip 2'is to be seen on the lower side theturned in flange or seaming lap k.Along this turned in flange of the'vamp is fastened by sewing theabutment or shoulder in the shape of a cord 6.

Fig. 2 shows a shoe in the course of man ufacture seen from below, withthe innersole a and the welt d. The parts are already united together byseams 39.

Fig. 3 shows the shoe ready sewn. The cord 5 which has been used onlywhile sewing, hasnow been removed and the heelpart,

has been fastened. The turned in flange it is now also clearly to beseen laterally.

Figs. e and 5 show two different sections of thearrangement of themachine used for my improved method, together with the ably influencethe effect upon the shoulder or the cord 6 or the like substitute.

Fig. 6. shows a front tip 2' consisting of the upper-leather Z and astifieninglining a. The front tip has been shaped in its upper part tosuit the last or it has been given a proper shape, as shown by shadingin the drawing, and has in its lower part a flat flange 7c bentinwardly. .Owing to its qualities the stiffening lining a is capable ofmaintaining and holding the shape as well as the flange after a singlepressing in the molding-operation. The upper-leather Z is coveredbeforethe molding operation witl a suitable glue and istherebymaintained on the shaped tip. On account of the ductility and the thinlayers of both the materials Z and it any formation of bulged parts bythe applied pressure is avoided.

Fig. 7 shows an upper act of a shoe, ready with the exception of thefront tip. The inner lining on is bent backward to allow both edges r toproject, by means of which the ready shaped front tip 2' is sewn to theproper place bya column-machine, as shown by the dotted line 8. I

In the sewing operation for uniting the upper, the innersole and thewelt, the upper of the shoe. is drawn by the presserfoot inwardly in thedirection of the arrows shown in- Fig. 2, just as it would otherwiseoccur in the pinching or lasting operation. But the substantial featureconsists herein that this inward-drawing or pressing. is per-,

formed by the employment of the guides (f or t) solely in the sewing orfastening process and. by the. respective part of the sewing orfastening machine.

The abutment or shoulder b (for the presser foot) by which the upperpart is drawn inwardly as described, could also be formed by other meansthan by a sewn. on cord. For instance the leather could be provided atcertain intervals or points with clips which could afterward be easilyremoved, as shown in Fig. 3 V

' The upper could. also be turned or. bent around and the bent part befixed temporarily, as shown in Fig. 3 It is only essential to use meanswhich during the sewing operation allow the presserfoot'to catch hold ofthe upper and to draw it inwardly, as described.

For shoes with a high spring, the execution shown in Figs. 8 to 10 isapplied.

Fig. 8 shows a top View of the innersole c with a .steelplate t. Thissteelplate is provided with clips or points a or the like, pressedthrough at various places and by means of which the innersole is held,as Fig. 9 shows in section. As further shown in Fig. 9, the steelplate,t has a spring corresponding to the heel to be used for the respectiveshoe. By laying and pressing the steelplate upon the innersole, thislatter which consists of leather or the like, assumes the same spring asthe steelplate. The thus elevated innersole is then introduced into thefinished upper aa, as shownin Fig. 10 and the edge t of the steelplateshown in Figs. 8 and 9, can then be used as V a guide in the describedstitching operation or for temporarily fastening the upper to theinnersole by means of pins 12, as shown in Fig. 10. After thispreliminary fastening the welt can then be sewn on in the previouslydescribed way or be left away according to whether the outersole is nowto be fastened by the McKay or welt method.

The assembling by means of the wire pins or tacks 1) would be sufiicientto maintain the upper in the proper position until a final assemblingwith the sole can be effected.

After the uniting operation of upper and whenusing only one of thefastening seams 7) (Fig. 2) or using one of the two seams for connectingthe upper to the innersole I and the other for connecting the welt tothe already united upper and innersole.

I claimz- V 1. The method of making shoes having a previously formed"tip with an inwardly bent flange or seaming lap, an insole, and anupper, comprising providing an abutment member on the outer edge of theup,-

per, positioning the upper by pressing the previously formed tip with aninwardly extending flange or ecuring lap, an insole, and an n per,comprising providing a detachable exible abutment. member adjacent theouter edge of the upper, positioning the up-:

per by pressing the abutment inwardly over the bottom of the insole andparallel to the edge thereof, seeuringthe upper and insole together, andremoving the abutment.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name in the presence of twosubscribing witnesses. a

HEINRICH WILHELM STEDLER;

Witnesses: 1 Y

RENE DE'WOLF, W. H. MUEOKEY.

